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how to seal a basement 3

how to seal a basement 3

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Groundwater swells when the water table has exceeded its high point. Soil surrounding your home is unable to hold the extra water, causing a consistent runoff problem. If you have a wet basement due to groundwater swelling, your basement will be wet for a long period after each storm and there may be water bubbling up from the joints between the wall and floor. Many homes are not constructed with protection from high groundwater, and it is very expensive to install a system to combat the problem. Combating a Wet Basement No matter if your basement is finished or you use it as just a storage room, it is important for the structural integrity of your home to combat a wet basement problem as soon as you discover it. Solutions to tackling a wet basement are plenty. The first step is trying to figure out the type of problem you are encountering. Then, check the grading around your home, downspouts for any leaks or pooling, and cracks in the driveway. Fix all of the problems you encounter as well as patching cracks in the basement walls and floors, as water in the home can cause mold problems as well as a wet basement. Applying a Concrete Sealer Sealers are available for coating basement walls and floors. They offer a quick waterproofing measure and can be decorated. They are easy to apply, provided you follow the manufacturer's guidelines. They can be applied to damp surfaces but any standing water should be removed. Fitting a Polyethylene Membrane An alternative to epoxy coatings is to use a polyethylene membrane. Although it holds back water, it may be necessary to install channels and a sump pump to collect and remove water from behind the membrane. Seek professional advice on whether this is required. Measure the surface area you need to cover and make sure you buy enough membrane for your needs.


Excess water in your basement not only limits your use of the space, it can cause a number of serious problems, from mold to weakening your home’s foundation. However, many homeowners put off repairing the problem because traditional solutions can be very expensive and ineffective.Alternative methods treat only the exterior foundation wall coatings and can be very costly. They don’t promise to eliminate water in your basement, just to redirect it.Sanitred takes a better approach using a different kind of waterproofing system. Sanitred is a simple three-step process that homeowners can apply themselves in a weekend. The products are solvent free, non-hazardous and non-flammable.For full information on how the Sani-tred Basement Waterproofing System works, click here.Proven by years of experience and thousands of customers, the only way to completely waterproof a basement is on the inside of the basement walls and floors, not the outside.  The Sanitred basement sealing system stops all ground water entry, basement humidity, mildew odors and dampness problems by sealing the basement where it needs it most – on the inside.For customer before and after photos, click here.


Tips Before beginning a serious basement remodeling project, observe your basement carefully during heavy rainstorms. If you can last a year of weather without any water leaks, you're probably going to be OK in the future (so long as you keep those gutters clean and take care of your foundation!). Note that salt & lime deposits form on concrete blocks as water leaks through them (white staining). This MUST be completely removed before any blocker is used. This is the most common reason why the sealing fails. This is generally done by dousing the wall with muriatic acid and scrubbing. Follow this by rinsing the area very liberally with a water hose, then vacuum it off the floor. This will normally take several applications. You will see the muriatic acid react with the deposits on the wall. When installing a sump pump, be sure to refer to local plumbing codes. Most installations will require a one-way valve to prevent water from coming into the sump through the outlet. Battery backup sump pumps are available. Search for "basement watchdog." These are great for sumps that have a steady flow of water into them since you'll know you have a backup if/when the power goes out or the main pump breaks. The construction of a new house is the time to properly seal the house for life. The old standby of plastic wrap and Styrofoam sheeting to protect does work. But it is almost always destroyed during the back-filling of the foundation, causing it to leak. This way of sealing NO LONGER meets the international building code, along with many state, country, or city building codes. The makers of DRYLOK suggest coating the exterior of the foundation with DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer. Remember the waterproofer is only as good and as sound as the surface. Protect the surface with a wrap before backfilling to protect from rocks and equipment. Regardless of what type of water protection you try to use, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Common misapplications of Xypex come from not following the directions, or more specifically, contractors being too cheap to do the job correctly. Xypex is at least a two stage system, with the second applications using a thinner, cheaper coating of different composition. Many contractors are trying to offset the cost of Xypex VS Drylok by only applying the FINISHING coats. When cutting into concrete, be sure to tape plastic drop cloths from ceiling to floor to enclose the affected area. When you apply Drylok to an interior block wall expansion joint. The block is hollow. The Drylok will stop the seepage temporary. The block will fill up with water causing bowing walls, mortem separation and wall bowing. Don't try and use these inferior products to seal the expansion joint. It will cost you a boat load of money later , when your foundation starts to cave. This is called a negative pressure. Dig up the outside and apply a positive pressure membrane to stop hydrostatic pressure.


Before beginning a serious basement remodeling project, observe your basement carefully during heavy rainstorms. If you can last a year of weather without any water leaks, you're probably going to be OK in the future (so long as you keep those gutters clean and take care of your foundation!). Note that salt & lime deposits form on concrete blocks as water leaks through them (white staining). This MUST be completely removed before any blocker is used. This is the most common reason why the sealing fails. This is generally done by dousing the wall with muriatic acid and scrubbing. Follow this by rinsing the area very liberally with a water hose, then vacuum it off the floor. This will normally take several applications. You will see the muriatic acid react with the deposits on the wall. When installing a sump pump, be sure to refer to local plumbing codes. Most installations will require a one-way valve to prevent water from coming into the sump through the outlet. Battery backup sump pumps are available. Search for "basement watchdog." These are great for sumps that have a steady flow of water into them since you'll know you have a backup if/when the power goes out or the main pump breaks. The construction of a new house is the time to properly seal the house for life. The old standby of plastic wrap and Styrofoam sheeting to protect does work. But it is almost always destroyed during the back-filling of the foundation, causing it to leak. This way of sealing NO LONGER meets the international building code, along with many state, country, or city building codes. The makers of DRYLOK suggest coating the exterior of the foundation with DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer. Remember the waterproofer is only as good and as sound as the surface. Protect the surface with a wrap before backfilling to protect from rocks and equipment. Regardless of what type of water protection you try to use, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Common misapplications of Xypex come from not following the directions, or more specifically, contractors being too cheap to do the job correctly. Xypex is at least a two stage system, with the second applications using a thinner, cheaper coating of different composition. Many contractors are trying to offset the cost of Xypex VS Drylok by only applying the FINISHING coats. When cutting into concrete, be sure to tape plastic drop cloths from ceiling to floor to enclose the affected area. When you apply Drylok to an interior block wall expansion joint. The block is hollow. The Drylok will stop the seepage temporary. The block will fill up with water causing bowing walls, mortem separation and wall bowing. Don't try and use these inferior products to seal the expansion joint. It will cost you a boat load of money later , when your foundation starts to cave. This is called a negative pressure. Dig up the outside and apply a positive pressure membrane to stop hydrostatic pressure.


Proven by years of experience and thousands of customers, the only way to completely waterproof a basement is on the inside of the basement walls and floors, not the outside.  The Sanitred basement sealing system stops all ground water entry, basement humidity, mildew odors and dampness problems by sealing the basement where it needs it most – on the inside.